Washing machine leaks
A burst supply hose floods at full pressure, and a drain hose or an overflowing tub puts gray water on the floor. Upstairs laundry rooms add the risk of water going through the floor into the ceiling below.
Water removal and drying after a washing machine, dishwasher or refrigerator line leaks into floors, walls and the ceiling below.
Fastest: call (833) 490-5225. Or send this and we call you back.
Appliance leak water damage comes from washing machines, dishwashers, refrigerator water lines and similar equipment. Shut off the appliance's water, then call. The crew extracts the water, checks floors, walls and any ceiling below with moisture meters and dries the structure. A repair technician or plumber fixes the appliance or its line. Phones are answered 24/7.
Appliances that use water are small plumbing systems of their own, and each has hoses, valves and seals that wear out. A washing machine supply hose can burst, a dishwasher door seal can fail, a refrigerator's ice-maker line can pull loose, and a drain hose can pop off during a spin cycle. Any of them can empty into a room in minutes, or drip behind the unit for weeks.
On a slab-on-grade home the water spreads across the floor and has no basement to drain into. It wicks up the bottom of nearby walls, runs under cabinets and works under flooring. In a two-story house with the laundry upstairs, it goes through the subfloor and shows up as a ceiling stain in the room underneath, sometimes before anyone upstairs knows there is a leak.
This page covers the cleanup and drying. Repairing the appliance is for a repair technician, and a line that has failed inside a wall is plumbing work for a licensed plumber. For a leak under a sink or in a wall, the burst pipe water damage page covers the shared steps.
Close the appliance's shut-off valve or the main water valve, unplug the appliance if you can do so without stepping in water, and stay clear of outlets. Move belongings, photograph the damage and call. If the laundry is upstairs, check the ceiling below for a stain, sag or drip.
Do not run a household vacuum on standing water, and do not try to mop up a flood of washer water by yourself if it has reached the baseboard or the floor below.
Keep the failed hose or part if you can. It helps the repair technician and may help your insurer.
Not entirely. Washing machine and dishwasher discharge is Category 2 water under ANSI/IICRC S500, meaning it is significantly contaminated by soap, soil and bacteria. Supply-line water starts as clean Category 1. Category 2 water is handled with gloves, and porous materials it soaked are often removed.
Water categories can get worse over time. A clean-water leak that sits in carpet pad and warms can become gray, which is why the first hours matter, even if no hour count applies.
Ask the crew which category it believes it is dealing with and why. The answer decides what is removed and what is dried.
Look for floors that feel soft or cup near the appliance, cabinet bases that stain or swell, a musty smell and a rising water bill. Moisture meters read inside flooring and drywall, and thermal imaging shows cool wet areas, so a crew can find water you cannot see or feel.
Slow leaks are the ones that cost the most, because they run for weeks and feed mold and rot. A refrigerator line can drip behind a unit that has not been moved in years.
If the water bill jumps and no one can say why, close every tap and watch the leak indicator on the meter. A moving dial means water is going somewhere.
A standard homeowners policy often covers sudden and accidental water damage from an appliance, such as a burst supply hose, but usually not a long-term leak or the appliance itself. Your insurer decides under your own policy. Call early, keep the failed part and ask your agent about wording.
The crew can give you moisture readings and photos for your claim, but it does not negotiate with your insurer or pay your deductible. Texas law keeps contractors out of the adjuster's role.
If something goes wrong with a claim, the Texas Department of Insurance and the Office of Public Insurance Counsel offer consumer help.
Replace old rubber washer hoses with braided or reinforced ones, check hose connections and the area behind appliances now and then, and close the washer valves when you leave on a trip. These steps do not remove the risk, but they cut it. A leak sensor on the floor adds a warning.
Hoses wear quietly. A bulge, a crack or rust at a connection means replace it, and it costs far less than a flooded laundry room.
Look at the ceiling under any upstairs laundry or bathroom now and then. A faint ring is the first sign that water is moving, and catching it early keeps the job small.
Unplug the appliance only if you can reach the plug without stepping in water, and never touch a wet outlet or power strip. If the leak is upstairs, stay out from under a wet or sagging ceiling and keep children and pets away.
Close the small valves behind a washer or under a sink, unplug the appliance if it is safe to reach, and close the main valve if the leak is still running. Stay out of standing water near outlets.
A broken supply line is clean (Category 1) at first. A washing machine or dishwasher discharge is Category 2, gray water, which is handled more carefully and removes porous materials sooner.
Extractors remove water. Meters find the wet baseboard, subfloor and cabinet bases, and the crew checks the ceiling below for upstairs appliances.
Wet carpet pad and swollen baseboard are removed, and flooring that has taken water is judged by readings. Air movers and dehumidifiers dry the structure, with readings each day.
You receive moisture readings and photos for your insurer. Repairs after drying, such as flooring, drywall and cabinets, are quoted separately.
A burst supply hose floods at full pressure, and a drain hose or an overflowing tub puts gray water on the floor. Upstairs laundry rooms add the risk of water going through the floor into the ceiling below.
A failed door seal, supply connection or drain hose lets water collect under the unit and creep into the cabinet base and the flooring. The leak can be slow, so the damage is often discovered when the floor feels soft.
A small tubing connection behind the refrigerator can leak for weeks. The water collects under the unit, in the floor and the wall behind it, where nobody looks. The line itself is a plumber's or technician's repair.
Appliance leaks vary the most in size, from a wet kitchen corner to a laundry leak that reached a ceiling below. Price follows the area wet and the water category.
| Job | Typical range | What it includes |
|---|---|---|
| Water heater or appliance leak cleanup (extraction and drying, one area) | $800–$3,000 | Plumber's or technician's repair is not included |
| Category 2 (gray water) mitigation, one room or small area | $2,500–$6,500 | For washer and dishwasher discharge |
| Wet carpet pad removal and disposal, per sq ft | $0.75–$2.00 | Common in laundry and kitchen adjoining rooms |
| Flood cut of wet drywall, per linear foot of wall | $3–$8 | Usually 2 to 4 feet up from the floor |
| Ceiling water damage repair, one section | $500–$1,800 | When an upstairs leak reached the ceiling below |
These are estimates for the south Dallas-Fort Worth area in 2026, not a quote. The crew confirms your price on site, you approve the emergency stage before work starts, and repairs after drying are quoted separately.
A crew is dispatched as fast as one is available, and you approve the estimate before any work starts.
Newer two-story homes in the south metroplex often put the laundry room and bathrooms upstairs, over living areas. A burst washer hose upstairs sends water through the subfloor into the ceiling and walls below, so the first sign in the living room may be a stain, not a puddle. Mansfield grew from 56,368 people in 2010 to 72,602 in 2020, which means a lot of this housing is here.
On a slab-on-grade floor, there is nowhere for kitchen or laundry water to drain. It spreads across tile, laminate and carpet toward the lowest point and under the cabinets and the walls. Tile survives, but the grout, the subfloor under laminate and the cabinet bases usually do not dry in place.
Humid summers slow drying, and the air conditioning cycling on and off does not pull out enough moisture for a wet room. A crew's dehumidifiers do that job, and readings tell you when the structure is dry, not the way it looks. If an old appliance in an older house near the downtown core has a rusted valve, a plumber can replace it while the crew dries.
Stained, bulging or dripping ceilings: find the source above, relieve the water, dry the drywall and insulation, then repair.
Extraction and drying after a tank water heater fails in an attic, garage or closet, with the replacement left to a plumber.
Water extraction and drying after a supply line splits in a wall, attic or ceiling, with the pipe repair left to a plumber.
Standing-water extraction from slab floors, carpet and ceilings in Mansfield, with the shut-off steps to take while a crew is on the way.
Not sure if you're covered? Check your ZIP code.
An appliance repair technician fixes the appliance, and a licensed plumber fixes a failed supply line or valve in the wall. The restoration crew handles water removal, drying and cleanup.
Yes. Water goes through the subfloor and can sit in the ceiling cavity for days before a stain shows. A moisture meter reads the ceiling below without cutting it open.
Often the carpet itself can be dried if it is lifted early, and the pad is normally replaced. Cabinet bases that stayed wet may swell, and the crew checks them with meters before deciding.
Often 3 to 5 days for one room, longer in humid weather or after a long leak. The crew checks readings daily, not a calendar.
It can pull a washer or dishwasher away from the wall to dry behind it, but disconnecting or reconnecting plumbing is a plumber's job.
Long leaks can leave rot and mold behind. The crew checks the floor and walls with meters, and mold, if found, goes to licensed Texas assessors and remediators, which are separate jobs.